As a lecturer in Fashion Contour technical design, I have observed that students are ofeten struggling to compile a clear Order Of Assembly (OOA) for their garments. This is a list of operations required to assmble a garment: it is a document used in industry as make-up instructions and communicates to machinist how to sew a garment that would be new to them as they have not participated in the development stages, and may only be executing part of the instructions. The documents lists machine used and seam allowance required for each operation. This also aids in highlighting the machines required and aids in setting up a production line with the correct machines.
Students often struggle with the sequence of operations, detail of instructions, and description of the garment part. The complexity of the exercise is particularly challanging for students who struggle with charts, sequencing and break-down of tasks. They tend to leave the exercise for last, whilst it would be best done after first toile, as it can aid in the making of the final garment. As a Neurodivergent penson (Dyslexia and ADHD), I recognise that I find some of these aspects difficult myself, whilst I can draw on some well developed skills, like 3D visualisation, to aid me in this process. I have decided to develop a workshop to help students approach the task in a manner that is more suitable to their abilities.
The Workshop
The workshop is run as group work, to ensure students are supported by peers and don’t feel isolated in their efforts.
Step 1
The students are given a ready-made bra and a sticky note pad, and are asked to list all seams on the garment as they observe them; each seam should be listed on a new sticky note. Example: bottom cup seam, under-band elastication, etc.
The students can handle the bra, look inside and out and see the stitching already in existance. They can position the sticky notes around the bra, to visualise where each operation is and make sure they are all listed.
This is the most time consuming step, as it is the initial task, and can feel daunting, but any missing seam can be added at later stages as required. This step can also be broken down in smaller parts, by analysing parts of the garment separately; example: Cup, wing, strap, etc.
Step 2
The students are asked to return to each sticky note and add the machine used to realise the seam, as they are observing it. Example: bottom vcup seam / lock-stitch, Underband elastication / 3 step zig zag, etc.
Step 3
The students are asked to return to each sticky note again and add the seam allowance required as they are observing it.
This oeration requires a little knowlege and imagination as seam allowances are often hidden by trims. Students can aid themsleves by thoroughly checking the garment and feeling the hidden fabric through the layers.
Step 4
Students are asked to put the sticky notes in cronological order. They can iad themselves by looking at the garment to assess what operation comes before others, but the fact that the information is already written down, and the familiarity acquired through repetition should aid them in the task.
Step 5
The information is transferred from the sticky notes to the chart required for hand in (or professional communication), one operation at the time.
If more than one group has completed the same exercise, this is a good opportunity to cross check that the results of the exercise are matching, and highlighting that at times there are multiple solutions.
The learning
The workshop is aimed at utilising different learning techniques to support each students with their individual difficulties and allow them to develop a system suitable for themsleves.
Object based learning
Learning through doing
Learning in a group
Break down of tasks
Learning through repetition
Notes:
22/4/25 https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0169721810010105
https://www.frontiersin.org/journals/education/articles/10.3389/feduc.2023.1071552/full